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The Portugal Question: What Most People Get Wrong About Moving There

An essay from Sapero conversations about place, belonging, and the real calculus of moving countries in the second half of life.

Mediterranean view with warm light
By Richard Masters · March 2026 · 5 minute read

Every few months, someone sends me an article about Portugal. "Have you seen this? Number one retirement destination again." They forward it with a mix of excitement and nervousness, as if forwarding a lottery ticket they're not sure they should cash.

I understand the impulse. I've lived the Portugal question from the inside for decades — not as a tourist, not as someone who read a blog, but as someone with Portuguese heritage, Portuguese citizenship, and the kind of familiarity that only comes from navigating its institutions, language, healthcare system, and bureaucracy over many years.

And the first thing I tell people is: the articles are both right and dangerously incomplete.

What the articles get right

Portugal is genuinely lovely. The climate, the safety, the cost of living relative to northern Europe and the United States, the healthcare system, the food, the human warmth. These are not exaggerations. If you visit Lisbon or Porto or the Algarve for a week, you will probably fall in love.

What they leave out

Moving there — really moving, not just visiting — is a different question entirely. It involves residency rules that change frequently, a tax landscape that has shifted dramatically in recent years (the Non-Habitual Resident regime is no longer what it was), healthcare that works differently depending on whether you're in Lisbon or a smaller city, and a bureaucratic culture that can exhaust even patient people.

More fundamentally, the articles leave out the emotional architecture of the decision. Moving countries at 60 or 65 is not the same as moving at 30. At 30, you're building. At 60, you're protecting — protecting health access, family proximity, financial stability, and a sense of belonging. The calculation is different, and the risks of getting it wrong are higher because you have less time to recover.

The questions that actually matter

In Sapero conversations about Portugal, we rarely start with "Should I move?" We start with questions like:

  • What am I actually trying to solve by moving? Cheaper? Warmer? Closer to something? Further from something?
  • What would I lose that I currently take for granted? Medical specialists, language fluency, a social network I built over 30 years?
  • What's my Plan B if it doesn't work — and how expensive is that Plan B?
  • Am I romanticising the place, or have I stress-tested the idea against a bad month, a health scare, a family emergency?

These aren't questions that can be answered by reading articles or watching YouTube videos. They require honest reflection, structured thinking, and someone who knows the terrain from the inside — not just the brochure version.

The tax question nobody wants to think about

For years, Portugal's Non-Habitual Resident (NHR) tax regime was a genuine draw — and understandably so. Favourable treatment of foreign pensions, exemptions on certain income categories, a flat rate for qualifying professionals. It was a powerful incentive, and it worked.

But the NHR has changed significantly. New applicants face different rules, and the political landscape around tax incentives for foreign residents has shifted. Anyone making a move based on the NHR as it existed two or three years ago is making a decision on outdated information.

This is exactly the kind of thing a Sapero conversation catches: the gap between the story you've told yourself and the reality on the ground today.

A framework, not an answer

Sapero doesn't tell you whether to move to Portugal. It helps you think through the decision with the rigour it deserves — mapping the forces, naming the trade-offs, documenting your reasoning so that in two years, whether you moved or didn't, you can look back and understand why you decided what you did.

That's the difference between a good article and a good conversation.

The Portugal question, in the end, isn't really about Portugal. It's about how you make life-shaping decisions — with clarity, with honest self-knowledge, and with someone who will ask the questions you haven't asked yourself yet.